On the Road to Damascus

An Unexpected Encounter WITH Pope leo xiv

I had always been fascinated by the story of the three fountains that had sprung up on the site in Rome where St Paul was executed. Legend said that his head bounced three times and this was a symbol of the three times he was imprisoned and escaped.  In each spot, a well of water sprang up as a symbol of purity and life. When I found that we had the chance to visit St Paul’s Basilica near to the colosseum, I opted to go there instead of the lions’ dens in the gladiatorial arena. Little did I know that when I turned away from that place of darkness, I would walk straight into the light.

St Peter and the keys to the kingdom were everywhere in Rome. At the Vatican for Sunday Mass his large statue in the Square with keys in hand took centre stage. Inside the Basilica, the choral music soared. Taking in its magisterial beauty, I noticed the airy light mosaics of the dove on marble pillars and the stylish perspex chairs for visitors to sit on. The sermon was ‘fishers of men’.  Jesus on the shores of Galilee and at Capernaum gathering his apostles. It was easy to understand the key words in Italian.

And then to the square for Pope Leo’s weekly blessing from the balcony.  It was a bit like a rock concert warm-up ten minutes before the main act with a band playing U2’s “In the Name of Love”.  There was a countdown on a loudspeaker until the pope appeared on the stroke of 12.  From the distance, he is not an over-powering figure, but his voice is clear and strong. His message was clear too: “Peace, Peace, Peace.”  In Ukraine and all over the world. We prayed and he wished us all ‘un Buena Domenica’.  The flow of the crowd dissipated for coffees and lunch. We found a fabulous little restaurant in one of the cobbled stoned corner streets. Pizza, coffee and water for 10 euros.  We added 2 glasses of wine and a tiramisu for an astonishingly cheap 30 euros. 

The Colosseum was our next visit and it was a spectacular backdrop against the bright blue sky as we came out of the metro.  It was every bit as colossal as the Vatican, and I was told the stones from the colosseum were used to build the columns of the Vatican in the early 16th century. It was Sunday afternoon and it had the air of a funfair. It was full of children in buggies with young mums and dads. We hadn’t purchased online tickets as I’d prefer a carefree wander, but there were queues everywhere and the tours at the Forum and Palantine Hill were all sold out. Even a walk around the perimeter of the colosseum was blocked with scaffolding.  We pondered and then agreed, ‘Another time’.  Walking back to the metro, I suggested we go two stops along to see St Paul’s Basilica. “After all, it’s not far, and without St Paul, we would not have known about St Peter.” I expected a ‘we’ve done enough churches for today,’ grumbled reply, but no, I got an ‘Ok. Andiamos’.

As we crossed the wide traffic-lit avenue, we could see the huge Basilica in the distance.  There was a McDonalds on the corner (the first we’d seen in Rome) and we agreed we’d stop there for a comfort break on the way back.  However as we approached the church we could see two black mini-buses parked and what looked like a group of men in dark suits. As we walked by the side entrance, we noticed a Swiss Guard welcoming them. “Surely the pope can’t be here?” my husband said, and I scoffed, not knowing the significance of the Swiss Guard. 

 Around the corner we saw two Vatican Media trucks with satellites and cables and I asked an unmistakeable secret service agent, in black Armani 3/4 length jacket, dazzling highly polished shoes, and a splash of a red cravat at the neck, 
“Is there something on? Are we able to visit the church?”   
“Si Si” he answered enthusiastically. “Go to front entrance……” 

We walked along the limestone pathway lined with cypress trees with green parakeets flitting from branch to branch until and we saw a small queue of about 20 people with two armed soldiers in camouflage gear, chatting to each other.  At the top of the queue was a small, tented area for security. We soon learned that the pope was coming for evening vespers to celebrate the Conversion of St Paul. It was an Ecumenical Service with representatives from every Christian religion, to mark the end of Christian Unity week. Did we have a ticket someone in the queue asked us?  And he flourished his white and gold Vatican stamped invitation.  
“No, we just came to visit the church.”
“Well go to the front, they might let you in.”
At the top of the queue a relaxed man in sweatshirt, jeans and sneakers asked in an American accent,
“Can I help you?” as he brandished his Polizzi Badge.
“We don’t have tickets. We just came to visit the church. Are we able to get into Vespers?”
“Yes, no problem, the ticketed people go first, then you. It should be easy. The doors open soon.” 

Meanwhile more people were arriving.  Groups of excited young priests and nuns all clutching their rucksacks and tickets. As it began to rain there was a sudden shaft of light as the doors to the Basilica opened. We passed through light security as the smiling crowd moved as one, out of the rain and into the cloisters with magnificent fountains and gardens.  Could these be the fountains I’d heard about? 
But there was no time to ask as everyone rushed for the best seats inside. We were guided down a side aisle where we were seated six pews away from the central altar. I spotted a magnificent statue of St Paul bearded and preaching. On the ceiling all around, the circular mosaics of popes since St Peter. Pope Leo’s had been just unveiled and was now on view. 

The three choirs were rehearsing with soothing, embalming music. I heard John Rutter’s “May the Lord Bless You and Keep You” in amongst the Italian score, as everyone chatted before service began. There were press cameras in boxes, ladders stacked at every corner, and suddenly, as the procession began, there were phones in the air, and a clamour for the best shot. And then you saw the small, calm, demeanour of Pope Leo, in his white cope and mitred hat. No pomp, no ceremony, moving easily through the crowd until he reached his chair. He was centre of attention and yet, fully absorbed in his role. He followed attentively all the hymns and incantations throughout the service, singing to some, and then more fulsomely to the Our Father. His sermon in Italian was clear and strong on the life of St Paul: ‘persécuter,  conversioner , communiquer’, culminating in the point of the service to all the Christian denominations present: to carry on the work of Pope Francis,  striving to become: ‘un solo corps, un solo esprit, un solo dieu,’ one body, one spirit, one  God. There followed individual acclamations in different languages represented by Eastern Orthodox churches and the Salvation Army.

The final procession flowed out as smoothly as it came in, the invited dignitaries clapped as Leo past them, his simple humility clear to see. I am quite sure had there been a close-up camera on him there would have been a tear in his eyes. ‘So this Lord is where you’ve taken me?’ 

I felt the same. Is this Lord where you’ve taken me? Earlier I had turned my back on the tour of the colosseum. Did I really want to be guided around the arena where Christians were thrown to the lions, and witness how Mussolini had spent a fortune on repairs to the Roman lift system? No, instead I had opted for a free walk around the Basilica where I thought St Paul had been executed, but in fact it was the site of where he had been imprisoned. His manacles were still on view, as of course was the archaeology of the site, that had once been a Roman settlement outside the city walls where Roman artisans lived and worked.  As I left, I asked someone,  
“Is this the site of the three fountains?” 
“No, they’re at the church of the Madonna de Tre Fontanas, about 20 minutes away.”
“Ok, that’s a visit for the next time.”

Click to view the full service on You Tube 

To find out more about Rome, and where to visit: People I Met on the Way by Fr Joseph Dillon has some excellent information. You can purchase your copy by Clicking on this link.

A 3 Day Winter Mini Break to Rome by Jet 2 direct from various UK cities; Hotel Modigliani, Barberini, Rome from £500